The Art of Wardrobe Building: The Evolution of Style

Your eye changes so much. My style evolves. Things get pushed to the back of the closet and then they come back again. I had a child. I’m older. I can’t do the things I did when I was younger. So I find ways to make my style more in line with who I am today. It evolves all the time. 

- Jenna Lyons

Jenna Lyons? She knows her style. But she plays around with it. It's tomboy minimalist one day. Tomboy colorful the next.

She looks like she's got it all figured out. And well, she does. Because one thing's for sure, she's comfortable in being who she is at the moment. Because essentially she says, she dresses for the person she is at every stage in her life.

Today feels like a good day to write about personal style again. Because it has been crazy hot, I find myself ditching the jeans and trousers I am known to wear like a uniform. I find myself reaching out for dresses, wearing tunics with shorts. Switching oxfords and leather ballerinas for espadrilles and flat sandals.

I used to hate prints and bright colors, but now, it just feels right. I am not really a dress kind of girl, but the weather's been asking for it. I know, I am resisting it, because I feel it's not my style. But is it really not? Maybe I am at the cusp of a style change. Maybe because I have come to a point wherein my "eye" has changed and what I considered loud and busy has become attractive and appropriate for the weather, for my life right now that is busy running errands, shuttling the kids to their summer activities, squeezing meetings in between, hanging out with friends, etc.

Or maybe this is the after effect of a heat stroke. If you see someone who looks like me wearing a loud Hawaiian shirt, barefoot and toting a tattered straw bag, please go and say hi. That could be me. Ahahaha.

Anyhoo back to our topic. I find that my style depends on the ff factors:

- the weather
- the city where I am at the moment
- whether I am breastfeeding or not (if yes, front buttons are an essential)
- whether the kids are coming with me or not
- whether I'd be walking a lot or just sitting down
- the people I'd be with (if it's the hubby, he'd want me in something more uptown than downtown, and well, we gotta dress up for our man hehee)
- the voice of my mom in my head saying, "Will Audrey Hepburn wear that?" ahahaha

My style hasn't really evolved that much since we moved to the US. I've been doing that French insouciance/downtown NY/with a hint of prep story for over 5 years now. Maybe it really is time for a change. But then again, let's re-visit this topic once this sizzling summer is through.

PS - Ok, tying this theme back to the art of wardrobe building, what happens when you find your style changing? I guess when its a basic, or a piece you absolutely love, keep it. As Jenna says, "things get pushed to the back of the closet, then they come back again." It's always fun to keep a pleasant surprise or two in your closet.

As for you, do you find yourself dressing differently in this weather too?

The Art of Wardrobe Building: The Personal Uniform

Extra pair please! (Parang extra rice lang). My shoe closet essentials (clockwise from top L-R): Lanvin flats, Louboutin Simple 85 pumps, Anthology oxfords, Sperry Top-siders, Isabel Marant Merry sandals

Years ago, back when I was still in high school, I remember Armida Siguion-Reyna saying that when she liked something, she'd buy it in all colors.

At the time, I was like, "How boring! Why get so many of one thing?" Because when you are in your teens, all you care about is variety, diversity, assortment! I have to NOT repeat an outfit, can't be seen wearing the same thing in one month!

But when I hit my 30s, I realized, Armida is sheer genius. Because, when you find something that works for you, it just makes sense to have a back-up, and if you are lucky enough to afford doubles or multiples - so much the better.

That brings me back to the concept of a uniform. If you wore uniforms back in high school, you'd know that you'd have 5 of the same, exact thing. Dressing up in the morning was easy. The only way to spice it up was if you accessorized - i.e. wore St. Michael knit socks and Bass/Cole Haan loafers (this was the early 90s ok, heehee).

So, over a decade after graduating from high school, eeep, make that two decades, I'm back to having a uniform. While I don't necessarily have multiples of the same thing, I buy things I like in at least two colors (I haven't reached Armida levelz yet, then again, I like sticking to neutrals). I keep on going to the same stores. I actually don't mind being seen wearing the same thing over and over, as long as it works for me and my lifestyle.  It makes dressing up each day brainless, and I guess, effortless.

Here's what basically makes up my personal uniform:

Bottoms:

J Brand skinny jeans

Current/Elliott boyfriend jeans

J. Crew trousers

J. Crew shorts

leggings

slouchy printed trousers

Tops:

Uniqlo, Old Navy, A.P.C. button down shirts

A.P.C., Saint James & Petit Bateau Breton shirts

Equipment, Madewell silk shirts

slouchy t-shirts

H&M tunic tops

Dresses:

A.P.C. tunic dresses

Ali Ro jersey dresses

shift dresses

Shoes:

ballet flats & sandals

oxfords

round toe pumps

wedge sandals
sneaker wedge

Outerwear (now rarely used):

Army jacket

Army parka

Navy blazer w/ gold buttons

Grey blazer

Black blazers

While I may have a trendy piece or two thrown into the mix, these are the pieces that are on constant rotation and I just wear these pieces interchangeably. While I don't have a lot of clothes, my wardrobe is complete. Then again, I care more about what's functional and practical now. And like I said, I don't care if I'm seen wearing the same pieces over and over. It just has to be repeated, haha.

Yes, my high school self would find my 36 year old self boring. But I know what I'm gonna tell that little runt - "Wait until you have an energetic toddler and a 6 month old that needs to be breastfed every 2 hours!"

How about you? Do you like the idea of a personal uniform? Better yet, what's your personal uniform like?

The Art of Wardrobe Building: My Philosophy

“I won’t say, ‘You must have a miniskirt.’ If you don’t have nice legs, it won’t work out. It’s not a question of must haves: it’s more about finding yourself. Who you are, what fits you, what you feel confident in — it’s more about feeling confident than having whatever look.” 

- Isabel Marant

In a world obsessed with having the latest "It" item - be it a bag, a pair of shoes, or a breakthrough gadget, people get so caught up with the hype and hysteria that they just have to have "It".

But the fact of the matter is, not every "It" item is for you, the same way not every "It" item is for me. You have to take into account your body shape (in the case of clothes), your budget, your lifestyle, and if you are lucky enough to know it, your true style.

As Isabel Marant says, "It's not a question of must haves; it's more about finding yourself". To be honest, I went through so many looks before I truly found my own style.

In high school, I did the preppy polo shirt with denims or shorts and loafers bit. I did the Doc Martens, plaid flannel shirt, oversized Girbauds look too.

I went through the Umbro soccer shorts, t-shirt and Charles Barkley high-tops phase when I was in first year college. By the time I was about to graduate, I was in my hippie phase and I kept on wearing Birkenstocks with flared Diesel jeans, flared corduroys or cargo pants. With my dad's Army issue camouflage shirts. In between I wore ankle boots from Russell & Bromley with bootleg pants and Ralph Lauren shirts, Patrick Cox loafers with  a mini kilt (inspired by the movie Clueless) and a short sleeved turtleneck top. My friend Xsa and I even went through a surfer girl phase, wearing Roxy board shorts and hoodies, flip flops from Reef and Quiksilver tees (blame it on Kate Bosworth in Blue Crush). To go to Punta Fuego. Hello.

When I started working for a bank, I tried the corporate girl look. Pencil skirt, cropped jackets, heels. It just wasn't me. It felt like I was playing "pretend office girl". Although I still like wearing pencil skirts to this day. When I moved to retail marketing/merchandising, I was into button down shirts and cropped pants, with zapatillas or driving shoes from Tods. Then I moved on to a more mannish vibe, wearing button downs with trousers and bowling shoes from Camper. I liked that look. It felt "me".

And then, because we had a corporate casual dress code in Citibank, I discovered I also liked wearing full skirts. Full 50s style skirts. And granny dresses. And shirt dresses. I liked wearing black & white Edie Sedgwick stripes and cropped pencil trousers. Then all striped shirts for that matter. Then I got obsessed with ballet flats. Because we could wear flats to work. It kick-started my ballet flats "collection".

Moving to the US was my "downfall". When you see all these stylish people in New York, and Barneys and Bergdorf, Saks Fifth & SoHo and all these cool boutiques are just too darn accessible, especially when they go on sale, there is no looking back. You buy! I also realized I was a downtown girl, and that as much as I liked reading Socialite Rank and Park Avenue Peerage, my aesthetic was really downtown.

Today, my style is an amalgamation of the greatest hits of my sartorial past. Preppy with a dash of edge. A hint of feminine, with a whole lot of tomboy. If I were to shop in five stores for the rest of my life, it's easy:

- A.P.C.
- Isabel Marant
- H&M
- J. Crew
- Barneys

Then of course, I support Filipino, so that would be:

- Anthology Shoes
- Catalogue63
- AVA.ph
- Sexy White Shirt
- Greenbelt 5 for all the local designer stuff heehee

Bottom line is, your philosophy should be to stay true to your own style, and buy things that work with your lifestyle. Don't use a limited budget as an excuse. My friend Nina M. and I often talk about this. That it's a great thing to have a limited budget. Because it forces you to curate, and really think your purchases through. So much so that you don't succumb to "It".

As a starting point to finding your own style here are five points to think about:

- your style icon. Why do you like his/her style? What resonates with you?
- the oldest thing in your wardrobe that you still use up to now, it's a testament to what you really love
- the most often used thing in your wardrobe, it tells you what is practical in your life right now
- your favorite store, ask yourself why you like the clothes there
- if you had all the money in the world, where will you shop? This tells you what you really like, if you had an unlimited budget. It allows you to go beyond what is a "practical buy" and gives you a glimpse of the "style star" hiding inside you. You can work towards buying similar pieces or will force you to save so you can get what you really want, even if it takes you years.

Take the time to think these five points through. Jot down your thoughts and try to see which direction your heart and closet is pointing to. ;)

The Perfect Wardrobe

I've achieved it. For my life right now that is. (Syempre, may disclaimer haha!)

But seriously, it just feels amazing having a closet edited to a point where I can fit everything in 2 decent-sized cabinets and that's it. Ok, plus half a shoe cabinet for my shoes. But yeah, that's it. At this point, I honestly can say I can do without buying any article of clothing, shoes, bag or any accessory until the year ends. Then maybe for next year, the goal is to just stick to 2 pieces max per season. 

Of course, I still have wants. I am only human. But I can seriously live without them. I can pass by a store without going inside. Come to think of it, I can actually even go inside the store and walk away without buying anything. I go online and I don't even have to "add to cart" or "add to wish list"! Is this really me?!

For the past 5 years, I was busy buying the ultimate piece. I rarely bought anything, but when I did, it was the piece I have always wanted. I never settled for second best or "pwede na". So now, whenever I open my closet, every piece there is something I love. Yes, items I bought years ago, ever since I started curating my closet, are still there, hanging. Each treasured up to now.

Months ago, I started a couple of postings on the art of wardrobe building. But that sort of took a back seat with the demands of my daily life. After all, writing about personal style and one's thought process as I went about building my idea of the perfect wardrobe cannot be rushed. It requires as much thought as  doing it.

Now that my little ones and I are pretty much settled into a routine, hopefully I can go back to tackling those topics again. Just the right timing too when my friend Gretch U. came over to visit us at home and we started talking about the blogs that appeal to her now - which are more about personal style than "Look at me I am so cute in this outfit" sort of blogs. I guess it has come with age, the change in our lifestyle as moms, and well, maturity I suppose that our interests have shifted.

I guess I am rambling at this point. What I am driving at is, while I will still continue writing about products or stores that I like, or that I think you will like, I will also be writing more about personal style. It feels like an achievement to be able to say, I am done shopping.

Now enough about me, let's work on building your perfect wardrobe too!

The Art of Wardrobe Building Part II: Top Ten Essentials

 (photo via deadfleurette.com)

I am assuming these are Emmanuelle Alt's Ten Wardrobe Essentials, and while her essentials may be a lot different from each one of ours, I think the lesson here is for us to sit down and really think about the top ten pieces in our wardrobe that we can't live without. 

Why? Well, because it helps streamline our wardrobe. It allows us come to terms with which items we really get the most use from, and which ones are worth investing in again.

My Top Ten changes depending on where I am and the weather of course. Now that we live in tropical Singapore, my basics have definitely changed. I am sharing with you a rundown, in no particular order:

1 - Current/Elliott boyfriend denims. So soft, I love the faded wash, plus it's really comfortable.

2 - J Brand black skinny jeans. When I want to feel a bit dressed up than usual, I pair it with a soft, silk top and pretty flats. Or heels on the rare occasion that I do wear them.

3 - cream silk top from Madewell. When I'm stumped about what to wear and I don't know if the dress code is casual or whatever, it's a no fail piece when worn with black skinny jeans or trouser-style denims.

4 - silver Lanvin ballet flats. Can be dressed up or dressed down, and is truly versatile. I've worn them so much I ran the soles down, I had to have them resoled at The Leather Spa. Now 

5 - Simple 85 Louboutins in black. I like how it can be worn with jeans, and is also perfect for cocktail dresses. After watching a bunch of royals wear nude pumps with various colored dresses during Prince William and Kate Middleton's wedding, I think a nude version is great to have as well.

6 - striped button down shirt from +J Uniqlo. Looks crisp, fits well, makes my...

7 - favorite J.Crew cargos look a wee bit more dressy.

8 - men's striped Breton shirt from APC. It has the loose, boxy fit of Saint James, but in a more lightweight cotton

9 - Gotta agree with Emmanuelle, a Rolex, an oyster perpetual datejust in my case, has to be part of this. Hey, it's a classic watch.

10 - K. Jacques Picon Pul sandals in natural. Goes with everything, from dresses to shorts to denims. I don't even have to worry if it goes with my outfit, because oh hey, it always does!

Of course, I have other favorites that are in constant rotation. But when forced to limit to just ten pieces, these are the items that made my cut, simply because they are perfect for my lifestyle. I can pretty much live with just these I think. Like a  capsule wardrobe.

How about you, what are your top ten essentials? Write it down, keep it as a personal guide or better yet, feel free to share it in the comments section, or in your own blogs! =)

The Art of Wardrobe Building Part I: Bare Necessities

The introductory post to to our "The Art of Wardrobe Building" project struck a chord among many of you dear readers. I enjoyed reading your comments and emails and like yourselves, I am all the more convinced that this is something we should really explore further. Here's the first installment:

The first step to building a wardrobe starts with the "unmentionables" or intimates, aka underwear. When building your wardrobe, begin by investing in underwear that is comfortable and fits well. After all, great-fitting, seamless underwear is the foundation of a perfect wardrobe. Clothes look and fall better when worn without unsightly bumps, lumps and visible panty lines.

While it would be nice to invest in pretty lingerie from La Perla, Kiki de Montparnasse or Agent Provocateur, there's no need to spend a fortune, unless the agenda is seduction. Hahaha! Personally, I am happy with department store brands like Wonderbra and Jockey. 

After 2 years of wearing nursing bras (Bravado Maternity is the best!) I recently just started wearing regular brassieres. I started shopping around for regular bras about a month ago now that Berry is pretty much weaned off. But having been used to comfortable nursing bras, I can't seem to go back to underwire bras and had trouble looking for wireless ones. Luckily, I stumbled upon Wonderbra's Full of Wonder Wire Free Bra (see photo above) in Robinsons. It comes in two colors, black and nude, and of course I had to get both. The bra is pretty, fits well and is so comfortable, with enough padding so there's enough coverage for when it gets chilly, if you know what I mean, ahaha!  

I have been using Jockey's No Panty Line Promise for almost ten years now. I hate the sight of VPL (Visible Panty Line, in case you didn't know) on other girls, I have to stop myself from tapping them on the shoulder and telling them - "Jockey. No Panty Line Promise". This is one versatile piece. Whether you wear one under a formal dress or jeans, it just works like a charm. Since I can never bring myself to wear butt floss, seamless underwear  is my salvation and cure to VPL. Take my advice, get a couple in black and nude. Nude is especially perfect for when you're wearing white jeans or a white dress.

Emmanuelle Alt swears by Wolford tights, its in her Top 10 Wardrobe Essentials. But I didn't buy because she said so. I actually just found out about it recently, pinky swear. I bought a couple of Matte 80s back when we were living in the States, and they are totally worth it. Admittedly, they are bit pricey for hosiery, but I got mine from Bare Necessities because they offer free shipping and they're part of Ebates, so I got lucky there. With Wolfords, you don't have to worry about needing back ups since one pair can actually last you the whole winter, but that'll be gross so you have to buy more. They're just so warm and rubs so nicely against the skin.

You might also want to buy a couple of slips and camisoles for unlined silk dresses or sheer ones. I got most of mine from Target and Anthropologie. Marks & Spencer would have some nice ones. Of course, most department stores would have these as well.

Oh and add tank tops to wear under sheer tops and bandeaus for low neck tops. Zara and Mango carries these. Get a couple in nude, black and white. 

Lastly, if you need shapewear, then don't hesitate to get one. There are a host of brands to choose from - from Jockey to Assets and Spanx.

If you are working with a budget, you wouldn't want to spend a chunk of it on underwear. Just start with good quality pieces in basic colors like nude and black. You can expand your lingerie repertoire in silk, satin and lace when you've got, errm, all the rest covered.

(Photos from net-a-porter.com, Wonderbra.com, Jockey.com, Wolford.com)

The Art of Wardrobe Building

 (photo via deadfleurette.com)

Personal style is a much neglected topic in this blog. That is why I have decided to devote more posts to it. You see, while I do tend to ramble on about stuff that I want, the fact of the matter is, I manage a very small wardrobe. Ok, fine, small is relative, but believe me when I say, all my clothes fit in 2 small cabinets.

I do not have a walk-in closet, and if I did, I would have trouble filling it. 

Simply put, my philosophy when it comes to shopping is very Parisian or shall I say Parisienne, ala "A Guide to Elegance".

"One of the most striking differences between a well-dressed American and a well-dressed Parisienne is in the size of their respective wardrobes. The American would probably be astonished by the very limited number of garments hanging from the Frenchwoman's closet, but she would also be bound to observe that each one is of excellent quality, expensive perhaps by American standards, and perfectly adapted to the life that the Frenchwoman leads...Americans are often shocked by the high prices in the Paris shops, and they wonder how a young career girl, who earns half the salary of her American counterpart can afford to carry an alligator handbag and to wear a suit from the Balmain boutique. The answer is that she buys very few garments; her goal is to possess a single perfect ensemble for each of the different occasions in her life, rather than a wide choice of clothes to suit her every passing mood."   

Growing up, I had a very limited shopping budget, which I found to be well, limiting. But on the bright side of things, it eventually trained me to think all purchases through. I only buy what I love. I buy things that last. Now that I can afford to splurge at times, I do not settle for second best. I would rather have one classic piece or wait until I can buy the item I really want, than spend on ten trendy or "pwede na" items I would end up giving away.

When I was in college, I was worried about repeating outfits and thought it necessary to buy a lot of cheap stuff. Looking back, while I did have a some great buys, I wish I just spent my allowance wisely on pieces I can use up to now. Such as my first "designer bag", a Burberry satchel I bought for £60 (which was a lot for a 19 year old me at the time) at the Burberry factory outlet in East London, and a pair of Patrick Cox loafers. In fairness, the bag is still alive up to now. The Patrick Cox loafers, I have given those away years ago. While the leather and construction was great, the style wasn't timeless enough. Lesson learned? If you're gonna spend on quality, then make sure it's going to be a classic that can withstand the test of time. Otherwise, its not a good buy.

Sure, the drawback to having a small wardrobe is I tend to repeat items a lot. I have a pretty uniform look. But everything is in a style that works for me and my lifestyle. I can dress up in five minutes, because everything in my closet is true to my style and they all work together. And because I value fit, proportion and quality materials, even if I keep on wearing the same items, they will never look tired.

In this age and time where people seem to be obsessed about acquiring, hunting for deals, substituting and other fleeting fancies, I think the focus should be on building the perfect wardrobe. On a collection that "tells the story of your life". On quality, not quantity.

Watch out for more posts on this subject. If there is one thing I would like for all of you dear readers to learn from this blog, it would be a mind towards thoughtful consumption.